postcards from cracow, land of dragon slayers and saints (european trip - part 3)

Cracow, Poland.  25 to 26 May 2008 -  I was thrilled to see the famous Old Town Square almost as soon as I arrived in Cracow. 

cracow market square by day

So excited was I that I spent less than 30 minutes unpacking and settling into my cozy hotel room.  I stayed at Hotel Wawel on Poselska Street, across a church that marked the hours with a soothing pealing of ancient bells.

 room at hotel wawel

I dashed to the Old Town Square, bursting with tourists, lively street performers, hungry pigeons, dolled-up horses and peddlers of food, stuffed dragons, amber jewelry and countless other crafts.

cloth hall square  monument at center of square   pigeons in cracow old town            church doors

Regardless of your faith (or agnosticism or atheism), you will be amazed by St. Mary’s Cathedral - the altar made by Veit Stoss is breathtaking!  It was a spiritual experience for me. I visited that cathedral thrice while in Cracow.

st mary cathedral and lamp   st marys cathedral    veit stoss altar 4   altar side panel   veit stoss altar 3   veit stoss altar 2     

  

At Kazimierz, there were grim reminders of the Holocaust but also of the resilient culture of the Jewish community in Cracow. 

  jewish memorial stone

Charming marionettes on a display window outside the Alef restaurant.  Old Jewish cafes.   

marionette with marionettes   old cafes at kazimierz, jewish district in cracow  

A scene in Schindler’s List was shot in this al fresco cafe.  Schindler was able to save hundreds of Cracovian Jews.

a schindlers list scene was shot here 

And all these add to Cracow’s charms…

Horse-drawn carriages and the modern tram circling the town -

 tourists on green carriage       cracow tram 

 Hand-hewn and earth-grown wonders -

  img_0582.JPG   st francis church   walking around cracow   pink flowers   

Poland has so many famous scientists. This statue is in honor of Copernicus.

copernicus 

Sitting inconspicuously around the bend of one of the streets surrounding the Old Town square is the Czartoryski Museum.  There is only one reason to visit it… 

 outside czartoryski museum

Leonardo da Vinci’s “Lady with an Ermine” - one of only three portraits of women by da Vinci  and said to be the most beautiful of all those paintings.  It is also touted as the world’s first modern-age portrait.  Out of reverence for The Master, I refused to take a photo (I think it was allowed) and just stared at it as long as I could manage.

   ladywithanermine.jpg

Steps leading to the top of the tower with Wenceslas’ bell, and the panoramic view of Cracow as reward for the trouble of climbing up.

claustrophobe’s nightmare up sigismund bell tower cracow view from bell tower    

Legend has it that a dragon once lurked inside Wawel Castle and terrorized the townspeople.  A huge bone hangs outside the entrance to the Cathedral of Wawel Castle, said to have belonged to the dragon that was slain by the King’s sons.  The bone looks like it actually belonged to a dinosaur.  :-)

  wawel castle entrance      view from wawel castle  kings watch over wawel castle  down to dragon’s lair   wawel castle from center   wawel castle tower  

While visiting Wawel Castle I heard Chopin’s piano music wafting from a stone wall.  There was a music store inside the castle, selling only classical music.  They were out of Chopin CDs, unfortunately. 

img_0617.JPG   img_0631.JPG  

Here’s my favorite view of the Wawel castle -

wawel castle flowers

On my second and last night in Cracow, I savored my dinner at an al fresco Greek cafe.  I waited for the lights to dim, the music to die down at the square, while I shivered in the May breeze.  But that moment never came.  I walked back to my hotel then woke up to the sound of church bells the following morning. 

cracow market square by night

2 Responses to “postcards from cracow, land of dragon slayers and saints (european trip - part 3)”

  1. Amber Girl Says:

    I love Krakow! Really pleased to see the lady with the Ermine, really incredible! Just cant believe how beautiful and cultural the city was. love the pics!

  2. marian Says:

    thanks. in my rush to post this long overdue article, i forgot to mention that i managed to get an amber pendant for myself and a rosary that scored many points with my father-in-law. :-) There’s lots of beautiful amber jewelry pieces in Cracow, if one has a discerning eye.

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