revenge of the killer tomatoes 13

a weekend escapade to the hundred islands in pangasinan was just what i needed to shake off my blog lethargy.  

entitled “sun, sea, sand, wii”, our office outing was KKB (kanya-kanyang bayad, or dutch treat) for budgetary reasons, but it did not lack for fun and excitement.  we certainly did not lack for food - i don’t think i’ve ever eaten as much rice, fresh bangus, liempo or junk food in one weekend.  thanks to our office team and our gracious hosts in mangatarem, it was a rejuvenating two and a half days. 

the hundred islands was a pleasant surprise.  i did not expect the pristine waters or the fine white sand.  i have seen too many places battered by tourists, sea-scapes ruined by sprawling concrete hotels.  it’s incredible that the hundred islands have been kept clean and unspoilt. 

never mind the “tender, juicy hotdog” ad for purefoods below each island’s name on signs planted along the boat route.  heck, if corporate sponsorship keeps the islands clean, that’s fine - so long as the ads are not too distracting.

we first set foot on governor’s island.  i was at first reluctant to climb up a trail to the top of the island.  it was a thankfully short hike on very safe, paved steps, that ended with an iced buko treat at the peak. 

for an extra 200 pesos we found old scout’s island, a relatively secluded spot with powdery white sand and a lovely swimming beach partly shaded by limestone cliffs.  i don’t drink beer, but it was the perfect time to chug a bottle of San Mig light:  lying on subtly shifting sand and cool, shallow waters, looking out to a calm blue sea dotted with mounds of forest green, laughing between sips. 

we spent the rest of the weekend in the family pool, improving our Wii boxing and tennis skills, and trading stories over vodka-orange cocktails and shamelessly oily, delicious food.  heading back to manila, our ripe mangoes in tow, we dozed off in happy exhaustion. 

Hanoi, Vietnam  -   Hanoi was more bucolic than I expected. 

Scooters and motorcycles occupied half of the road but they didn’t zing or zag or swerve.  The engines puttered away steadily, bearing as many as four people. 

There were no gargantuan malls like the ones we have in Manila.  That’s a good thing, of course.  I never subscribed to the school of thought which measured the progress of a city by the presence of glitzy department stores and similar monuments to consumerism…  Hanoi’s charming Old Quarter has rows and rows of shops tended by artisans and traders.  If you’re not used to the heat and humidity though, shop-hopping all afternoon will kill you.

According to our generous host partner, Hanoi has 12 lakes.  What is even more impressive is that their lakes are clean and teeming with fish.  Our hotel, the Intercontinental Hanoi West Lake, sits calmly on a lake, like fishermen’s houses on  stilts but nicely done in concrete, colonial-like architecture.  Each hotel room has glass doors that open out to your private balcony and a piece of the lake.

We had an exceptional dinner at Le’Orientale (not sure if I got that name right), where fabulous tables were laid out in the restaurant’s basement wine cellar.  I thought I had had enough of dumplings till I tasted the excellent food in that restaurant. 

On Saturday morning, we got a taste of Vietnamese coffee atop an old boat.  Highlands Cafe may feel a bit rundown but it offers good views of the lake and of the locals casting fishing lines by the shore.  A couple of hours later, we headed to Cafe Mai downtown and bought bags of coffee beans, supposedly the best in Hanoi.  I took home just one bag, belatedly realizing it cost only 2 US dollars.  The price in Vietnamese dong just throws you off - I exchanged 150 US dollars and received over 2 million VND in return. 

I regret not visiting the Temple of Literature, one of the oldest universities in Asia, as well as the Ho Chih Minh museum.  I could’ve gone to the tourist attractions on my own, but I just didn’t feel juiced up enough to explore beyond my hotel and the few shopping streets in the Old Quarter.  Next time, I will pack more energy! 

On the way home to Manila, I made a shameful shopping stop in Hong Kong, spending about 4 hours at the Citygate outlets despite my worn feet.  I guess I missed the hustle and bustle of the cosmopolitan life. 

I liked Hanoi but because of the work I had to do, my mind was unprepared for the city’s slowness and tranquility.  I should return to Hanoi with an empty suitcase.

before the memories fade, i resolved to finish writing about my trip to prague last may.  to friends who’ve been prodding me for pictures of prague, here they are.

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Prague, Czech Republic -   

Just before I stepped into my sleeping cabin on board the inter-city train from Cracow, the train attendant handed me a Prague city map.  It looked like something Nancy Chandler could’ve made (her maps are excellent guides for Bangkok and its labyrinthine markets).  I thought my Prague map was just as reliable until I lost my way.  A kind lady at my hotel reception replaced my map after letting out a good laugh. 

my hotel room in prague and the church just across the street, which i initially used as a landmark.  there must be a dozen structures that looked like it.     

our Prague city walking tour group passing through a tunnel.  view from a cafe, waiting for the tour to start.

walking tour

I must say our tour guide was a great disappointment.  His occasional sexist comments aside, I couldn’t help comparing him with our excellent guide in Berlin, whose cohesive and insightful narration was also immensely entertaining.  Oh well, at least I saw most of the major Prague attractions in one day.  Prague is at the same time postcard-perfect and intriguing - the beautiful and the bizarre actually live side by side in that city.

There were exhibits of Salvador Dali and Alfons Mucha at a gallery in the Old Town Square.  

the astronomical clock

As the crowd waited for the Astronomical Clock to mark the hour, a newly married couple ran to the bottom of the clock’s tower and posed for photos.   We didn’t know them from Adam, but we cheered as they kissed. 

Don’t expect the clock to deliver a mind-blowing mechanical show - it is, after all, nearly 600 hundred years old!  Four figures represent things that were despised in the 15th century: Vanity (adoring himself in a mirror), Greed (holding a bag of gold), Death (a skeleton that strikes the time), and a Turkish man (gasp, this is said to be antiquated racism).  The 12 Apostles march behind tiny windows to mark the hour.   Far more fascinating than the old animatronics is the astronomical clock itself, which has a zodiac calendar in addition to telling the time and season. 

Like Cracow, many structures in Prague were spared by World War II and have been preserved.  While walking on Prague’s cobblestone streets, I couldn’t help thinking about home.  Manila, former capital of the Philippines, was the second most damaged city in WWII.   

the haunting

I’m Catholic but I didn’t feel at all comforted by the religious references I found on the Charles Bridge, a 14th century bridge that looks like it sprang out of the gates of Mordor.  A website says that an evening stroll on the bridge would be a romantic one, what with the breathtaking views of the river and the Prague Castle.  Maybe I have an overly active and bizarre imagination, but those almost-pitch-black, looming figures that lined the bridge would look menacing in the evening amidst an eerie floating mist!

st. vitus’ cathedral

St. Vitus’ Cathedral is certainly an architectural masterpiece.  Beyond that though, I did not have the same moving experience as I did in Cracow.  St. Vitus’ Cathedral has amazing stained-glass windows, vaulted ceilings and ornate carvings but because it was practically run over by tourists, gone arethe solemnity and reverence that would otherwise appeal to people of any faith.  That said, the cathedral is a memorable lesson in Gothic art.  I especially learned a lot about gargoyles! 

I paid for a ticket to a classical concert at St. George’s Basilica within the Prague Castle grounds but was too exhausted at the end of the walking tour to see it.  Too bad.  But there will be other opportunities to listen to Vivaldi et al anyway. 

I spent my last evening in Prague savoring my early dinner and resting my cobblestone-sore feet.  By morning, I was back in fighting form.  I dashed quickly to a shopping mall near our hotel (as if I didn’t have enough clothes in my suitcase!), made a work-related stop, then counted my last few hours in the city with leisurely steps along the river. 

I donated half of my enormous pizza lunch to the lady at the hotel reception desk who kindly replaced my Prague city map.  Good deeds, after all, should be rewarded.

Cracow, Poland.  25 to 26 May 2008 -  I was thrilled to see the famous Old Town Square almost as soon as I arrived in Cracow. 

So excited was I that I spent less than 30 minutes unpacking and settling into my cozy hotel room.  I stayed at Hotel Wawel on Poselska Street, across a church that marked the hours with a soothing pealing of ancient bells.

I dashed to the Old Town Square, bursting with tourists, lively street performers, hungry pigeons, dolled-up horses and peddlers of food, stuffed dragons, amber jewelry and countless other crafts.

Regardless of your faith (or agnosticism or atheism), you will be amazed by St. Mary’s Cathedral - the altar made by Veit Stoss is breathtaking!  It was a spiritual experience for me. I visited that cathedral thrice while in Cracow.

At Kazimierz, there were grim reminders of the Holocaust but also of the resilient culture of the Jewish community in Cracow. 

Charming marionettes on a display window outside the Alef restaurant.  Old Jewish cafes.   

A scene in Schindler’s List was shot in this al fresco cafe.  Schindler was able to save hundreds of Cracovian Jews.

And all these add to Cracow’s charms…

Horse-drawn carriages and the modern tram circling the town -

 Hand-hewn and earth-grown wonders -

Poland has so many famous scientists. This statue is in honor of Copernicus.

Sitting inconspicuously around the bend of one of the streets surrounding the Old Town square is the Czartoryski Museum.  There is only one reason to visit it… 

…Leonardo da Vinci’s “Lady with an Ermine” - one of only three portraits of women by da Vinci  and said to be the most beautiful of all those paintings.  It is also touted as the world’s first modern-age portrait.  Out of reverence for The Master, I refused to take a photo (I think it was allowed) and just stared at it as long as I could manage.

Steps leading to the top of the tower with Wenceslas’ bell, and the panoramic view of Cracow as reward for the trouble of climbing up.

Legend has it that a dragon once lurked inside Wawel Castle and terrorized the townspeople.  A huge bone hangs outside the entrance to the Cathedral of Wawel Castle, said to have belonged to the dragon that was slain by the King’s sons.  The bone looks like it actually belonged to a dinosaur. 

While visiting Wawel Castle I heard Chopin’s piano music wafting from a stone wall.  There was a music store inside the castle, selling only classical music.  They were out of Chopin CDs, unfortunately. 

Here’s my favorite view of the Wawel castle -

On my second and last night in Cracow, I savored my dinner at an al fresco Greek cafe.  I waited for the lights to dim, the music to die down at the square, while I shivered in the May breeze.  But that moment never came.  I walked back to my hotel then woke up to the sound of church bells the following morning. 

There are few things more empowering than traveling to other countries on your own, especially if you’re an Asian woman.  But a husband or significant other can be quite handy during a trip.  Here’s why.

1.   It’s tougher to coax strangers to take your picture.  - I usually try to spot a family traveling together or someone pushing a baby stroller.  I think it’s less likely that they’ll flee with your precious digital camera.  Of course there’s no hard and fast rule and any con artist worth his salt would look like the most innocent tourist.  That’s why I had few pictures in Prague and NY with myself in them.   

hubby can’t refuse to take crazy pictures of me. (yokohama, 2008)

i shot this from a window at our NY office (2006) when no one was looking. believe me, i tried to pose for the pic with the cityscape behind me.  i failed. 

2.  If you’re struggling with your suitcase, your S.O. has no choice but to help. -  I confess to playing the weak card on this.  Combine huffing and puffing with “miserable puppy” eyes for maximum effect.  If you’re strong and athletic and have no need for an extra hand, fine, congratulations.  But if you’re a wimp - physically, like me - it’s not a great setback to women’s empowerment. 

3.  If you get lost, you’re not alone.  -  Hubby and I initially set out for Ayutthaya, Thailand with the intention of renting bicycles when we get to the island.  We spotted several bike rental shops after the ferry ride, but put off renting bikes in the hope of finding a better deal.  Eventually we ran out of bike shops.  No problem, we thought.  Until we got lost on foot.  It was a gruelling 2 hours of wandering aimlessly under the scorching sun.   But thank goodness for Hubby who kept my spirits up when our bottled water was running low.  And hallelujah for elephants!  That cost us an arm and a leg but we actually enjoyed the quirky, bumpy ride.

photos from our second trip to thailand (2006), our favorite shopping destination.

4.   You have an excuse for eating second helpings and more.  -  Hubby and I are passionate about Japanese food.  At Asakusa in Tokyo, I ate five or six plates of sushi and sashimi, not counting Hubby’s plates which I helped clean out.

more photos from our first time in tokyo together (2008), courtesy of abie co. 

5.  Someone can veto your foolish purchases.  -  Having a shopping companion who knows you well can be good or bad, depending on what he/she thinks is an unwise acquisition.  In our case, a Voltes V toy robot was definitely one of the best buys of our life (we were both fans of the Voltes V anime that was, after several episodes, banned from Philippine television by former dictator Ferdinand Marcos).  Clothes are a different matter.  Hubby might have vetoed the trench coat I got in Poland.  

Two thoughts after my Eastern European adventure - which I’ve yet to finish writing about on this blog: (1) Every Filipina should travel to Europe alone at least once in her life; (2) One’s fascination is multiplied infinitely when traveling with a wonderful companion. 

Warsaw, Poland -  First and most painful lesson learned from traveling by rail in Eastern Europe:  travel light!

I should’ve taken the trouble of finding a luggage locker at the Tegel Airport.  I only realized that when I was skidding down the escalator of a train station in Berlin (heading to Warsaw), chasing after my falling suitcase. 

How delusional of me to think I could drag around one week’s worth of used corporate wardrobe, meeting notes and conference swags (drastically reduced this year) around Eastern Europe without pulling a muscle!  

How do the Germans teach the history of the World Wars to their children?  This question haunted me from Berlin to Poland.

According to a Polish friend who went to a German prep school, the German re-telling of the war was very objective and fact-oriented.  They spent a lot of time discussing the events that led to the rise of Hitler to the top echelons of power.   I am sure the Germans were and are remorseful for the genocide and other atrocities, but I still wonder how they tell their children about that dark era.

My friend’s apartment in Warsaw has a national park for its backyard.  Our walking tour began there.  I admired the Royal Palace from afar, sitting on a glassy pond surrounded by canopies of trees.  Peacocks and squirrels wandered freely.  We watched intently as a male peacock danced for his lady love, his fan of blue, emerald and gold feathers flying open as it quivered with a low whirring sound.  I was delighted to see a monument dedicated to Frederick Chopin  (the first CD I ever bought: Chopin’s classic piano pieces).  Chopin’s statue was bombed during WWII, one of several attempts to crush the Polish spirit.  It now stands proudly again.

We then dashed off to Warsaw’s Old Town, which was flattened during World War II (it is widely known that Warsaw was the most devastated city of WWII, while few are aware that the City of Manila ranked second).  Warsaw’s Old Town was charming, even if many structures were merely rebuilt after the war.

I bought souvenirs from various quaint shops.  Colorful, handpainted eggs.  A pair of handwoven slippers, great airplane shoes!  A hard-to-find mug with Picasso’s rendition of the Polish mermaid, holding a hammer instead of a sword - a reference to the Soviet Union’s opportunistic subjugation of Poland at the heels of the WWII…  And because I’m such a nerd, I shrieked with glee when I saw a marker saying that Marie Curie, icon of physics and chemistry, lived in that building (my science teacher mom would be so proud!).   My friend and I walked around the Old Town in the cool weather, eating chocolate-flavored ice cream swirled high on waffle cones. 

Oh, strangely, we came upon an exhibit of over a hundred Berlin bears painted and jazzed up to represent the countries of the world.  Guess which country made the most hideous but funny bear?  The other bear below, with the painted image of a monkey-eating eagle, was the Philippine entry.

 Later in the afternoon I spent hours inside the Museum on the Warsaw Uprising, moved and awestruck at how the Polish have retold their past and clarified its lessons for future generations.  I saw articles by a favorite author, George Orwell, condemning the Soviet occupation of Poland and the tolerance/acquiescence by the Allies.  I can’t resist a good book, so I walked out the museum with a 3-inch-thick authoritative account of the Warsaw Uprising, along with additions to my growing ref magnet collection. 

I liked Polish cuisine, especially the rich borscht soup that looks like wine and those delicious dumplings.  My friend and I had a fabulous dinner at a restaurant located in the basement of what used to be a former vodka factory right in the middle of Warsaw.   

I saw many great symbols - the “Fighting Poland” symbol engraved in stone beside the Warsaw Uprising memorial, the mermaid holding up a sword and shield, to Chopin and memorials to war heroes.  Unfortunately, I only took a handful of photos in Warsaw.  I forgot to charge my camera (waaa!).   As I packed myself onto a train cabin heading to Cracow, clutching my precious baon bag of strawberries and chocolates (courtesy of my friend), I felt an odd calm and satisfaction.  I know I will not visit Warsaw again with the same eyes.

Berlin, Germany - Recently ranked by BusinessWeek as one of the most livable cities in the world, Berlin is a battle-scarred veteran ready to take on the world.  It reconnects with its rich cultural heritage, keeps mementoes of both proud and bitter past.  But it is also fascinatingly modern and edgy.  

I joined a walking tour and we saw the magnificent royal buildings and wide boulevards to the broken tower of the Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church that was bombed in World War II, the archeological treasures in the Pergammon Museum (must-see’s: the Pergammon altar, the Ishtar/Babylonian gates and fantastic ancient mosaic art and sculptures) to Norman Foster’s modern addition to the Reichstag. 

There were horse-drawn carriages bearing tourists circling the Brandenburg gate.  A few minutes later, I spotted the innovative pedal-powered transport designed by the Max Planck Institute, then hopped over to the mall-like Hauptbahnhof train station, gateway to other European cities (this is where I landed a week later, coming from Prague).  There were few remnants of the Berlin Wall.  One scribbled graffiti said it all: “Madness”. I was in tears after our tour guide narrated how hundreds of thousands ripped the wall apart with crude tools and their bare hands, with throngs on both sides of the wall shouting, “Freedom!!!”

Whatever is left of Hitler’s complex underground bunker is now several feet below a nondescript parking lot, conspicuous only because of a historical marker.  Hitler committed suicide in that bunker, along with other loyal minions who took cyanide.  Several hours later, we visited the Jewish Memorial, a vast installation of thousands of dark gray, starkly sharp-edged, unmarked graves in different sizes.

During the Cold War, a royal building was converted into one of the Communist party’s headquarters.  Now it houses an MBA school - a shameless paean to capitalism.   Beside it, another party building was torn down to give way to a commercial development.  At Checkpoint Charlie, student actors gamely posed as American soldiers for 2 Euros.

Across a mural that depicted progress, equality and (supposed) happiness during the Communist time, there was a haunting blown-up photograph of protesters who were killed during that era. 

While sipping capuccino, I ran into a rally staged by young people about joblessness and the sorry state of education (they should see our public school students attending class in flooded rooms!).  There was music, lively chanting and a speaker with rocker looks, standing on a moving platform.  One of the streamers featured Spongebob Squarepants.

People in Berlin are very friendly and accommodating, which was a pleasant surprise to me.  Different cultures collide and collaborate to create the Berlin vibe, without smothering the city’s heritage.  I was sad to leave Berlin but anxious to go on to Warsaw and explore Eastern Europe for the first time.